One city in India which has very few listed companies but which Marcellus’ analysts visit with metronomic regularity in order to conduct field research is Lucknow. The food in the Avadhi capital city is mind-blowing. Not just the starters (galouti), not just the main course (biryani) but also the desserts are out of the world. Therefore, we were not surprised to see Ritu Agarwal of the BBC say:
“Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow’s sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of 408 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting “creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development”.
The recognition “is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem”, Tim Curtis, director and representative, Unesco Regional Office for South Asia, said.”
This Unesco recognition is really hard to get. As Ms Agarwal explains (especially to those who think Mumbai or Bangalore or Chennai should belong to this elite category): “Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities globally.”
Ms Aggarwal then pays tribute to two remarkable institutions from this great city. First up, is Imtiaz Quereshi: “But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot’s lid tightly sealed with dough.
It was popularised during the 18th Century reign of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah – the region was in the grip of a famine and he initiated a work-for-food programme. Large cauldrons with rice, vegetables, meat and spices were sealed to make a one-dish meal.
The story goes that the Nawab caught a whiff of the aromas emanating from the pots, demanded a taste and the Dum technique was officially adopted in his kitchens.
This technique was revived and commercially popularised in modern India by the late chef Imtiaz Qureshi, recognised as an Awadhi cuisine maestro and the force behind present-day iconic Delhi restaurants Bukhara and Dum Pukht, which are included in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.”
The second institution Ms Agarwal celebrates is a nondescript tea stall: “In the city centre of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5am at Sharmaji Tea Stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
Morning walkers, political strategists and journalists gather around this nondescript shabby shack, which has been operating since 1949 and is now a legacy tourist attraction.”
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